Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
